Part 7: Sing-a-Long!

I followed my fellow pilgrims over to the Church after dinner was completed. It was time for Compline and the daily 'Blessing of the Pilgrims' service. I tried to sit inconspicuously in a back pew, but everyone moved as close to the altar as they could, so I, too, chose a closer pew. As I tried to follow along, I was able to pick out only a few words I recognized. Pelegin, pilgrim, was sprinkled in every other sentence, so I knew this service was about and dedicated to the walkers. Several certificates were awarded. It wasn't until later I learned that 'compostelles' are given for walking a certain number of kilometers of the Path or for completing visits to certain churches. After the awards, designated pilgrims came forward and read a prayer in their native language; a half dozen in all. And yes, there was one American, a woman from Seeley Lake, Montana, who read in English. The service completed, the group moved en masse to the open area in the north transept, Mary's Chapel. Brother Jean-Daniel stepped to the piano, and we all sang a rousing  'Chant des pelegins de Compostelle' (Ultreia!) I say 'we' although I didn't have a clue what the words were...I just mouthed whatever and joined in the chorus. It was a stirring experience! The third verse and refrain had hardly stopped echoing off the walls when the group moved to the parvis in front of the Church. For the next half hour, we were entertained by the Brother's explanation of the famous typmanum.  Again I say 'we.' Those of us who didn't speak French could only assume that the Brother's talk was amusing as the French-speakers laughed frequently. Tourists gathered with us, and at 9:30pm, we all re-entered the Church for the evening 'Orgues et Illumines'; organ music with illumination of the upper ambulatory of the church. This is the only time anyone can mount the narrow stone stairs to that area. I paid my 5 euros and did the walk. It was amazing to listen to the huge pipe organ and walk around the spectacular columns and capitals. Each capital was carved in the different design. Peering over the railings, the candle-lit Church below was full of mystery. I ended the evening sitting in the back pew of the Church listening to Brother Jean-Daniel play "The House of the Rising Sun/Son" full volume, reverberating off the ancient stones of the Church walls. My 'pilgrim' heart sang with joy!

A long day filled with new experiences and new ways of looking at the world. I crawled into bed quite tired. My last thought as I drifted off to sleep....'I hope these pilgrims are quiet tonight.' I never heard a peep out of them!